Romesco sauce

romesco sauce

Everybody loves romesco sauce! (Well, everybody except my 6-year-old son, but he claims to have eaten earthworms, so his taste is suspect. Shocking, I know! We’re vegetarian!) When people first taste romesco sauce, their faces instantly light up, and they have to eat some more and they say, “What is this? It’s delicious!” I’ve seen it happen many times!

Romesco sauce is a combination of roasted red peppers, roasted tomatoes, hazlenuts, almonds, bread, and lots of paprika. In an ideal world, you’d roast the peppers over an open fire, and roast the tomatoes for hours in your oven. In a slightly less ideal world, you’d roast the peppers on the flame of your gas burner. Sigh. I don’t have a gas stove, so I broil my peppers, and they turn out fine. And this time of year, I cheat and use roasted tomatoes from a can. (Hunts fire-roasted diced, as it happens). You could also use peppers from a jar. This sauce will still taste good!

It’s a very versatile sauce. Good with roasted vegetables, good as a dip for chips or crackers, good on sliced baguette, good as a pizza sauce, a pasta sauce, a sauce for savory pies (particularly those with lots of greens) or croquettes.

Here’s Art Pepper’s Red Pepper Blues.
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Malcolm’s supreme sweet Coconut chocolate chip cookies

*OR* FURTHER ADVENTURES IN CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE VERSIONS.
My son Malcolm (9) was home from school today with a sore throat and a headache. He didn’t feel too bad, and we had such a nice day together! He’s so much fun to be with. He’s had these cookies in his head for a while, and today we finally had time to make them. He wanted to make sugar cookies with coconut and dark chocolate chips. He made all final decisions on what went into the batter. They’re delicious!

Here’s Bill Withers’ lovely Lovely Day, because I had such a nice day with my Malcolm.
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Broccoli & chickpea flour croquettes

broccoli & chickpea flour croquettes I always buy broccoli, but I never do anything interesting with it. In the end I usually just steam it and serve it as a side. Well, last night, confronted with a large bunch of broccoli, I felt determined to do something DIFFERENT! And this is what I came up with. I thought of the classic Roman combination of broccoli, red pepper flakes and garlic, and I thought…let’s put that in a croquette. Croquettes can be tricky to make – they can turn out pasty and stodgy in the middle, but I find that adding beer and baking soda really helps. And these turned out crispy and light as can be. (I’ve been cooking with beer a lot lately, haven’t I? It’s so fun to pour it in and watch everything foam up. And it really does make batters light and sweet.) I made these quite large, so they’re almost like steaks, and we ate them with oven roasted french fries and simple tomato sauce.

Here’s Sage Francis’ Broccoli Break.
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Fennel in a sherry & green peppercorn broth

Fennel in a sherry green peppercorn sauce

Sweet fennel in a spicy, smoky, buttery broth. Garnished with toasted slivered almonds and gorgonzola. Delicious, but what is it? Whatever you want it to be! We had it over basmati rice. It would be good with couscous or orzo, or any other kind of pasta you like. If you add white beans or chickpeas it could become quite a hearty stew. If you cook until the fennel is very soft and the liquid quite reduced, you’ll have a delicious compote that would make a nice vegetable side dish. I was in the mood for something light and brothy (post thanksgiving search for clarity!). So I had mine by itself, with several large handfuls of baby arugula tossed on top and stirred in to wilt very slightly. And some toasted ciabatta bread. I think there’s something so pleasurable about combining ingredients, giving some thought to the flavors of the vegetables or beans, and choosing herbs and spices that match. And then tasting a spoonful of the broth, and finding it wonderful! Such a feeling of achievement! Such anticipation of the meal about to be eaten!

Here’s JJ Barnes singing about Sweet Sherry. I used dry for this, but we don’t need to tell him that.
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Walnut & herb sauce

Walnut herb sauce

I said I’d tell you how my walnut & herb “gravy” turned out. Well, let me tell you people, it turned out very well indeed! I’m quite proud of it! I called it gravy for the role that it served in our thanksgiving meal (it went beautifully with deep mushroom pie and chestnut/white bean stuffing!) But really it’s a sauce. It would be wonderful on pasta, with some sautéed veg thrown in. It’s a lovely, creamy, deep ivory color. But there’s no cream in it at all! In fact, if you made it with margarine or olive oil, it would be vegan. Its main ingredient is vegetable broth (other than the walnuts, of course). So be sure to use a good veg broth. It’s easy as pie to make your own, and you can use herbs in the broth to complement the herbs in the sauce! You see that glint in my eye? That bee in my bonnet? I plan to use this in a soup very soon. Mwah ha ha hah… I’ll let you know how that goes…

In the meantime, here’s The Soul Leaders with their wonderfully saucy song Pour on the Sauce.
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Roasted carrot & apple with goat cheese in a rosemary crust

When I was little, I loved the Little House on the Prairie book that was about Almanzo Wilder’s childhood in upstate New York. In one scene, he gets all excited because his mom makes him his favorite dish – apples and onions. As a child, I thought this was a very odd combination, because apples were sweet. Well, it turns out that little Almanzo was a culinary genius, because apples are lovely in a lot of savory environments. In these little pastry parcels, carrots and apples, roasted with shallots and garlic, show off their sweetness to tart goat cheese and sharp cheddar, and all the tastes are enhanced by the lovely combination of golden raisins and rosemary. A surprising mix-up, perhaps, but really delicious. I made these quite small, because the filling is soft and it contrasts nicely with the crispy crust. Have 2 or 3 with soup or a salad for dinner, or take them to a party as a fancy appetizer.

Here’s Neutral Milk Hotel’s King of Carrot Flowers. Might not actually be about carrots, but such a good song.
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Happy Thanksgiving!

ginormous mushroom pie

Happy thanksgiving, everybody! However it began, it’s become a holiday to celebrate being with people we love, and to celebrate having good food to eat and the opportunity to cook it together. Of course I love that idea! It’s a day to think about what it means to be grateful, and to concentrate on all of the things we have to be thankful for, which is something I wish I did more often. It seems like one of the least commercializable holidays – no toys or candies or cards. The things they’re pushing at you in the stores are ingredients for food that we can make together – bags of walnuts, cans of pumpkin purée, yams and turnips. Yeah.

So what am I making, you ask? I’m making a ginormous deep mushroom pie, that will be just as satisfying and delicious as turkey, I feel sure, for the vegetarians among us. And I’m making a herbed walnut “gravy.” I’ll let you know how that goes later on. And I’m making a stuffing of chestnuts, white beans, apples, shallots and sage. Recipe after the … jump!

Here’s a small playlist of songs of thanks and gratitude. Have a wonderful day, everybody!
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Turnip and arugula soup with gorgonzola toasts

Turnip & arugula soup

A flavorful soup with a cheese toast floating in it – for me, this is the apex of comforting food on a rainy November day. This is a light, bright soup. The sweet yet slightly edgy taste of turnip goes well with the nutty but slightly edgy taste of arugula. (And the arugula helps to prevent turnip-soup-grey drabness!) And both combine nicely with the distinctive (and slightly edgy) taste of gorgonzola. I used half arugula/half baby spinach, hoping that the spinach would help to mellow its snappier cousin. I used a vegetable broth made with the carrots/potatoes/mushrooms/shallots/garlic & turnip greens. Plus a handful of masoor dal and a variety of herbs. If you’re not a fan of gorgonzola, you can make cheese toasts using a milder cheese, or no cheese at all, or leave them out altogether!!

Danny Polo is a clarinetist from the 30s, and here he is Doing the Gorgonzola.
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Empanada Gallega – vegetarian style

This is the time of year for savory pastries! (somebody told me I say the word “savory” too often. And perhaps I do, but somebody’s got to!) They’re so warm and comforting, and they’re the perfect solution to the problem of trying to feed vegetarians a holiday meal. Or to feed non-vegetarians a meal special and satisfying enough that they don’t miss their meat.

Let’s start with the grandmother of all savory pies…the Empanada Gallega. This empanada is probably the source of empanadas all over the world. It hails from Galicia, in Northwestern Spain, and it’s a large flat pie that would be cut into pieces. I’ve never been to Galicia, and I’ve never eaten a genuine empanada gallega, but I’ve been so taken with the idea of it, and I’ve read so much about it, that I feel like I have! I’ve cobbled together a vegetarian version of my idea of an empanada gallega. It’s delicious, relatively simple to make, and it feeds a lot of people. I believe that seafood, specifically tuna, is used in the real version. I’ve experimented with different types of vegetables…mushrooms, eggplant, spinach, zucchini. The combination I like best, in the end, is artichoke hearts and zucchini. Baby spinach would work well in that combination, too, if you’re in the mood. If you’re not a fan of zucchini, you could stick with artichoke hearts by themselves. Whatever you like! We’re making it up as we go along, so it’s very adaptable. You know what would be good? Artichoke hearts and roasted red peppers. I’ll try that next time!!

empanada gallega

In Galicia, the patterns on the pies help to identify what kind of filling is inside. Since I just make one at a time, we just have fun with them. My son made the owl!

Here’s Grant Green’s Empanada

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Black Bean Burgers

Black bean burger

It’s a vegetarian classic! These are simple, but they have a lot of flavor. Although basically comprised of black beans and bread crumbs, they’re flavored with sage, basil, smoked paprika, cumin and fennel, which makes them more tasty than any old beef burger, baby! I baked them on an oiled baking sheet, but you could cook them in a frying pan as well, and they might be slightly less dry. I served them on sweet potato buns, and the flavors mingled well with the cardamom. I also topped them with a bit of brie and some arugula. My boys ate them with barbeque sauce!

Here’s De La Soul’s Bitties in the BK Lounge
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