This is a simple cake that goes well with other things – like fruit compotes and whipped cream. It’s nice in the morning with a slathering of blueberry jam and a cup of coffee. It’s nice after dinner with a square of bittersweet chocolate and a glass of wine. It makes a nice base for a trifle, what with the sherry and all. We had it last night with a port-poached quince compote. And tonight I think it will be a blackberry, apple cassis compote. And chantilly cream, of course! Know what that is? Whipped cream with vanilla essence, that’s what!

Here’s Cake Walking Babies From Home by Sidney Bechet 1925 (and Louis Armstrong!)

1/2 cup butter softened (1 stick)
1 cup white sugar
1 t. vanilla
1 T sherry
2 eggs separated
1 1/4 cups flour
1/2 cup ground almonds
1/2 cup (+/-) milk
1 t. baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t. salt
pinch of nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 325.

1. Cream the butter and the sugar. Add the vanilla, sherry and egg yolks and beat well

2. Add all of the dry ingredients and mix well.

3. Add the milk. Enough to make the batter smooth and workable. Not too thin, not too thick.

4. Beat the egg whites till stiff. Put a big spoonful into the batter and stir gently till it’s incorporated. Then add all the rest and fold them gently in.

5 Bake for about 1/2 hour till it’s golden on top and slightly springy to the touch.

6. Sprinkle with a tablespoon of sherry and a dusting of icing sugar.